Everest Gokyo Ri Trek - Hiking From Machhermo to Gokyo
Slept solid from 10:00 to 3:30 AM or so and then faded in and out. When we finally got up for real, it was a chilly but beautiful morning. We packed up quickly and hit the trail by 8:15. We were pleased to see that the trail had been walked on so we didn’t have to break it. As an added bonus it was cold enough that the snow supported our weight.

We made good time climbing back out of the valley our guest house was sheltered within. Then we had a long walk through a valley carved by a river hundreds of feet below. The footing was improved and the drop from the edge of the trail wasn’t as bad as the day before. We made good time, but it was hard to look up and take in the picturesque view as improved footing didn't mean safe footing. When we did look up, we tended to slip and slide. It was amazing how much harder the snow made things.

After less than an hour we passed a Japanese trekker, Shingo, and two French guys, who had both left before us. So all in all, we were making good time considering the conditions. After about two hours the trail climbed straight up a series of stone steps. Climbing them wasn’t too bad, but you had to be careful of the ice as the river and run off from of melting snow on either side of the trail.

Once over the steps, another huge valley presented itself showing that we had quite a way still to go. Along the valley was a huge moraine on the side and we had to follow it all the way down to Gokyo. Along the way, we passed three guys that said they broke the trail up here the other day and it took them nine hours to get where they were going. We didn’t feel so unfortunate after that.

Shortly after we started walking down the valley, I noticed a series of ducks in the non frozen part of the lake. Getting a good photo meant crossing virgin snow and hoping that it didn’t fall out into the lake. Although it was painful to say the least, my efforts paid off. The ducks waited until I got close and then took off right at me.

Tracking back to the main trail was tiring, but it really amused the French guy as he caught up to me. We trotted down the rest of the trail until the moraine turned right and we saw the tiny village of Gokyo in the distance. Unfortunately, the lake was frozen over, taking a little bit away from the incredible mountains surrounding the village.

We quickly headed for the dining room that was warmed by the sun. As we sat around we could definitely feel the affects of the altitude. I was looking forward to our summit day and descending afterward. The snow was really taking its toll and with it some of the joy of the trek. As we hiked it was frustrating to have frozen feet below, while being baked like a potato in aluminum foil from the waist up.

As the evening rolled on, I began to feel ill. It wasn’t altitude, but I think a combination of the yak dung fire and the fresh varnish used in the dining hall, because once I got in my room I began to fell much better. Maybe it was the 2008 Chinese Olympic wallpaper decorating our small but quaint room. Surprisingly, I fell asleep through the night.

The story continues...