Everest Base Camp Trek - Dingboche to Lobuche

On a tourist trek like Everest Base Camp there’s not much wildlife to see. While a yak isn’t exactly wildlife, shortly after our next day’s hike toward Lobuche (5,050m / 16,700’) a pair of yaks gave us some excitement. Two yaks challenged each other to a duel of sorts, head butting each other until one submitted.

Along the way Keri’s stomach problems persisted. Unfortunately, that was not the only issue. Reports of rock slides and avalanches on the way to Base Camp, combined with the fact that we were so early in the season that no mountaineering groups were at the camp, led us to skip it. Instead, we headed directly for Kala Pattar with its great view of Everest. The other group, with my new friends Kirk and Nancy, decided to follow the same plan. Up the trail, we were treated to another taste of “wild” life as a group of crows hovered in the wind like kites, their jet black feathers piercing the cobalt blue sky.

That night we hunkered down and prepared for our summit bid on Kala Pattar with our two independent groups nearly merged together. The physical and mental strain of trekking at high altitude took a toll. We were all worn down, nervous and cold. Before bed we discussed our strategy, and expressed concerns about our ability to reach the summit. We went over decisions for start times, clothing choices and debated taking the altitude sickness drug Diamox as a preventive measure. This was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity and we all wanted to succeed.

In the middle of the night I heard the gut wrenching sound of someone throwing up. It was Keri. Her stomach was revolting, making it readily apparent she wasn’t going to be fit for the climb. After she composed herself, we talked and she indicated she wanted to wait another day. While it made sense for Keri and Heather to wait, I decided to join Kirk and Nancy. Believing my group wouldn’t succeed, I definitely wanted the opportunity to reach our destination. How could you come this far and not see Everest up close? I hoped my group would be able to complete it a day later, but from my coaching experience I didn’t think they would be ready. My decision didn’t sit well, but as our guide said he would stay with them, I saw no reason not to go.

The story continues...